From the outer courtyard of Festung Hohensalzburg which guards over the historic city below, the awnings, spires and monuments each adorned with a turban of snow, Salzburg appears as an artist’s impression of itself. Walking the winding path that alternates from asphalt to cobblestone under foot it all feels real enough.
Nonnberg one of the world’s oldest functioning convents, made famous in “Sound of Music, the cold hard bricks as stoic and ancient as its inhabitants prove to be nothing more than a façade to the warmth of the nuns worshipful song that emanates though its doors and windows.
This is not the only façade in Salzburg, birthplace of Mozart. 47 percent of the city was destroyed during 15 bombing raids during World War 2, when the Allies weaponry was not as pinpoint accurate as today’s military. Despite architects and stonemasons recreation of the city showing amazing attention to detail, the city is an artist’s impression of its former self.
A forgery. Replica.
Reminiscent of the codes in a Dan Brown novel the city keeps its secrets by putting them out in full view. One just has to pay attention to the details. Interpretive signs include phrases such as “copy” or “print” guides will tell you that artefacts are “of the period” or “in the style”.
Another sign of the lack of authenticity are the prices. While in other European cities museums, palaces and galleries all charge admission. Salzburg the vast majority have free entry. The subtleness of this clue is in its audacity.
Mozart, arguably Salzburg’s most famous son has his own museum. Mozart Geburtshaus, his birthplace, in keeping with the Salzburg style is full of artefacts that represent the history of Mozart and his family. The violin, has been confirmed by Mozart’s sister to be the same make and size as the actual violin Mozart received for his 6th birthday – without being the actual violin Mozart received for his 6th birthday. Similarly there is a piano that is described as “similar to the one Mozart owned”.
The four locks of hair sealed in Perspex cubes are accompanied by a sign declaring that DNA evidence proves that three of the samples do indeed come from the same person, but can not confirm that they came from the famed composer’s head or the head of any of his relatives. By omission this sign also tells visitors that at least one lock of hair is nothing more than, well just a lock of hair.
What is real is the hot drinks served at the Geburtshaus café. The hot chocolate is served with a spoon that can stand up in the “drink”. More like a meal than a drink it is like warm pudding mix just before it sets.
Reality can also be found in the much shunned and slightly kitch Sound of Music tour. Although not geographically fitting together as they do in the multi Oscar© ward winning movie, the rotunda, the fountain, the abby (both the actual abby-Nonnberg and the church shown on film Mondsee Cathedral) Leopolskron Castle (Captain von Trapp’s home) and so much more. The laughs and singing are all real on this tour. Apple strudel at St Gilgen will become one of your favourite things.
The residents of Salzburg are also real and so is the beer and the Augustinerbräu Kloster Mülln is a real mix of both. Consisting of three halls each the size of a basketball court furnished with rows of long wooden tables where patrons can sit with approximately 200 of their new best friends on equally long wooden benches – Hogwarts dining hall except the magic here is real. In total this is a mammoth beer hall hosting up to 2000 guests at a time The menu is simple: bread, dip, cheese, roast chicken and sausage. And beer. Beer is sold by the litre in steins patrons wash for themselves in a fountain. There are people in traditional costumes, chinking of steins, singing of traditional folk and dancing. This beer hall is everything Hollywood producers tell us European beer halls once were. Regardless of age or language, the social connection in this place is real
Salzburg was once an extremely wealthy principality, due mainly to its salt mines, and its wealth is evident, in the quality of its replications; its boutique retail strip, RezidenzPlatz, its fortress or Rezidenz Palace.
Although many of the furnishings and fittings are replicas and recreations, Rezidenz the former home of the Prince Archbishops of Salzburg is pure opulence. Now one of Austria’s premier art the the furnishings and décor make the Marriott Renaissance Hotel Royal Suite in Dubai look like a shack. The ornate heaters alone would be worth more than a modest inner city apartment in many of the world’s capital cities.
To escape your own reality venture to Salzburg for a few days to experience reality of a different kind.
